Thursday, August 20, 2009
Home
"I'm finally home. I can finally speak English again. It's so nice to eat normal food. I don't know what I was thinking, but I know I'm never going back to China."
The first few weeks of my trip were rough. I felt lost for a number of reasons. And all I could think of was coming home.
And now I am home. And it feels great to have conversations without struggling to communicate. It's comforting to walk into a restaurant and know everything they have on the menu, and then recognize all the food you order. I missed my family. It's great that I finally get to spend a week and half with them before heading up to school. It's been nice talking to friends (especially counselors I worked with at a tennis camp the past few summers) and catching up.
But amazingly, I miss living in China. And I absolutely want to go back. Not right now, but sometime in the future. Maybe for another summer, or maybe for longer. I don't really know.
Why? I guess part of it has to do with the language. When I signed the language pledge 9 or 10 weeks ago, I thought it was the end of the world. Every day I told people "我想说英文" - "I want to speak English." It really was miserable, walking around all day not being able to say anything intelligent to anyone else. I thought ending the language pledge would be the greatest moment of my life. But by the final few weeks (as I mentioned in past blog posts), Chinese started to come much more naturally. Not that my Chinese is great, but I began to feel comfortable talking to anyone. At the same time, I wanted it to keep on getting better. And I knew that the moment the language pledge ended, my opportunities for speaking Chinese were going to decrease too. It would have sounded crazy two months ago, but I kept on speaking Chinese (not all of the time, just some of the time) even after the pledge ended. Mostly to teachers (even though their English was pretty good). And even to friends. So the big ending to the pledge wasn't that exciting at all.
An example of why I like being able to speak some Chinese. On my flight back, a Chinese man placed his carry-on luggage in the wrong overhead compartment. An American woman then came and found she had no space for her luggage. Knowing what had happened, I explained to the Chinese guy in Chinese that the American wanted the person to move their luggage from her spot. Problem solved. It later turned out that the Chinese guy spoke very fluent English, so I really wasn't that important. But it would have been the same if he hadn't. The point is, I've never been able to speak two languages well (a little Hebrew, and very little French, but both really terrible), and I've found it exciting and almost powerful to be able to communicate in both. So I want to keep learning Chinese. And even though I'll continue this year at Yale, it won't be the same.
Without getting too political, I guess another reason why I want to go back has to do with the directions China and the United States are each moving. American criticism of China is endless. There's certainly the impression here that the Chinese government controls every aspect of Chinese life, and that there is no personal freedom. Well, while it seems like every day our own government takes over another aspect of our society (banks, cars, health care...), it seems like China's moving in the other direction. Enough of that for now.
I know a lot of my friends from the trip might not say Chinese people are the friendliest people in the world, but in general, I felt I was treated incredibly kindly and respectfully. I think a story at the airport best illustrates this. Filled with textbooks, flashcards, and random things I had bought in China over the past two months, my suitcases couldn't hold one last bag I had bought as a present for my family that morning (tea, tea biscuits, and Chinese moon cake). So I had to carry it. Unfortunately, as I was checking in my luggage, I put that bag on the ground and forgot to pick it back up before I took the shuttle to our gate. As I passed through security, it hit me that I was missing a bag. I quickly went over to some desk and explained my situation (in Chinese). They gave me a phone number, the person I spoke to gave me another phone number, and finally the next person I spoke to said no bag. Having already passed through security and with very little time before boarding, I realized the situation was hopeless. So I headed towards the plane. At gate E31, I figured I would give it one more try and speak to the people at the check-in desk. Before I could finish my first sentence (in Chinese again), I looked down at the desk - and there was my bag. "这个是我的!" - "This one's mine!" And I got it back. So I guess the woman at the luggage check-in noticed I had lost my bag, figured out where I was going, and got someone to bring it there for me. Probably one of the kindest things a stranger has ever done for me.
And it wasn't just that. It was my host family calling every week organizing weekend plans to take us around Beijing. And it was all of our teachers, who were some of the nicest, friendliest people I've ever met. Or the guys playing basketball who asked me to play with them the second I got there (it took over a year to get asked to play in a game in Riverside Park). And while the occasional shop owner or waiter got frustrated with out lack of Chinese as we bought things or ordered food, most were thrilled we could speak some Chinese. And many told us our Chinese was great and then asked us questions about ourselves and what we were doing in China. Yes, the stares and the occasional "外国人" were difficult getting used to. But once I got over some of the initial challenges, I realized some of my (and others') initial perceptions were wrong.
I still don't know why I am learning Chinese. I still don't really know what I would do in China if I had the opportunity to go back. The more I think about it, the more I realize it's impossible to have one's future follow a mapped out plan.
But even if absolutely nothing comes of it, my summer was a good experience. It made me realize that sometimes the things you are used to aren't necessarily the best. They just seem the best because you are used to them. It's going to take some time before I figure out what those last two sentences mean to me, but I guess I have time.
Thanks to anyone who followed me as I rambled on about my summer. I hope it wasn't too boring. Who knows, I might even write another post one day if it seems relevant. For now, here are the final pictures from China. Two more albums: "Goodbye China" and "Host Father's Pictures."
http://picasaweb.google.com/LouisGilbert15
Sunday, August 9, 2009
National Pride, Too Many Jiaozi, Deja Vu, and a Fitting Final Weekend
Anyway, an eventful week. Last Sunday afternoon, my friend Dominic and I played tennis again. This time, after we finished, one of the tennis teachers there came up to us and asked if we could play together some time. He said he could bring a friend to play doubles. Agreed. Tuesday afternoon, 3:00. America vs. China. To heighten the drama, several hundred (maybe a thousand) students were practicing on the nearby soccer field for some upcoming ceremony (included in the pictures). PLA soldiers had them marching in unison. The Chinese national anthem was playing. Other HBA students passed by us and said "Go America!" And... we lost. Damn it. 5-7, 4-6. To be fair, Dominic was injured, and I was exhausted. And they were very, very good. But, we lost. Hopefully there's still time for a rematch.
Wednesday night was badminton with my host father and his friends again. This time his friends actually came. I discovered that Chinese class and Chinese homework is really bad for staying in shape. Unbelievably tiring. Much faster-paced than tennis. I won one singles match and one doubles. Lost two singles and one doubles. Very fun. Starting my homework at 9:30 (the longest word list of the summer and a 500 character essay) was not fun.
Thursday night: jiaozi contest. Jiaozi are basically dumplings. You roll a little dough, put some type of meat or vegetable or both in the middle, then fold it up. There's an incredibly unresponsive and good restaurant a couple blocks away that some students go to almost every day for lunch. For some reason, they decided to hold a jiaozi eating contest. The turnout was far higher than expected: 24 in total, including around 8 teachers. Rather than have an individual competition as planned, we split up into two tables. Whichever table ate the most... just won. No prize. It was hysterical. The waiters would bring in a plate of jiaozi, and in seconds they were all gone. Each plate has 15, and each table had 12 people. So they just disappeared. Unfortunately (or fortunately), people kind of lost interest in the competition and wanted to get back to study for the next day's test. So for the people remaining, we decided to order a few extra plates and have a speed-eating contest. First to finish wins. My team one. What a gross experience. My stomach hurt all of the next day. Not conducive to taking a test. Pictures of the competition included in the album.
Then an interesting and kind of strange weekend. My host family had planned to take us out to eat Beijing Kao Ya (Peking Duck) on Sunday. Friday night, most of my friends decided to go out to eat... Peking duck. Rather then eat alone somewhere else, I said screw it and joined them. Very, very good. Not sure I would spend 100 kuai (about $14-$15.00) again though. Not enough food for the money. Better when it's given to you free by your host family, like on Sunday.
Unfortunately, Kao Ya wasn't the only double experience of the weekend. After Friday's dinner, everyone decided to head to Sanlitunr, one of Beijing's two big bar areas. We started at a small bar named Smuggler's (because they have very cheap drinks) then went to a bigger club called Vic's (everyone wanted to dance - I hate dancing but that is irrelevant). At Vic's a few students met the manager and started chatting (he had a Lamborghini parked out front by the way). He said he would let us all in for free on Friday if... we promised to bring over 100 people the next night. He said he would reserve a private room for all of us. Deal. So, Saturday night after HBA's talent show (which I did not participate in), all of HBA (teachers included) went right back to Vic's. Oh right - someone had the great idea of going to Smuggler's first to get some cheap drinks. It was fun hanging out with everyone, including the teachers (who showed a side of them not usually seen in class), but the whole time I was thinking: did I really just spend my Friday and Saturday night doing the exact same thing? Something I don't even like doing? Oh well. It was better than hanging out alone in my room.
Sunday was duck meal #2. I never actually lied, but I never actually let on that I had already had it. I don't think they would have cared anyway. And after lunch, we went to check out the Olympic stadiums.
Why a fitting final weekend? Last summer, I had no intention to study Chinese. I thought I was going to continue French, get rid of my language requirement as soon as possible, and move on. And then the Olympics happened, and I said to myself, Beijing seems like an interesting place. It would be really cool to learn some Chinese and travel there one day. I wasn't planning on using French for anything anyway so I said what the hell, I'll try Chinese. And here I am, writing from Beijing, not fluent, but able to speak a lot of Chinese. One year and one day later. And today, I finally got to see the buildings that (kind of) brought me here. Not really sure how to describe the feeling, but it was a little overwhelming.
Sorry to get philosophical, but it's strange how life works. Not to say that Chinese will play a big role in my life in the future, but it certainly has played a big role already. I have spent the last year taking a quiz every single day. I spent my summer in China. I am continuing Chinese at school next year. And right now, I'm considering coming back here next summer (not yet certain, and not yet sure to do what). All because of some buildings. Not that those buildings changed everything, but they gave me the idea to try Chinese out. And from there, things just kind of fell into place (like Yale giving me a whole lot of money to come here for free - why not?). So it was fitting to finally see the 鸟桥 (niaoqiao - Bird's nest) and 水立方 (shuilifang - Water Cube). In many ways I don't think I could have left Beijing without seeing them.
Alright. One more week to go. Here are this week's pictures (HBA Week 8):
http://picasaweb.google.com/LouisGilbert15
Monday, August 3, 2009
Technology Problems and Funny Conversations
So the most interesting part of the week was a trip to a big shopping area, Xidan, on Friday afternoon. I hate shopping, but I ended up buying some Chinese children's books, a few Chinese movies, and two English books (each a $1.40). And it's more of a challenge and much funnier to shop in Chinese than in English.
Like at one store the girl working there noticed the three of us were all speaking Chinese to each other. So she asked if we were all from the same country. When we said yes, she looked at us like we were crazy. So we had to explain the language pledge. And that one of us actually works for HBA, so she obviously wouldn't let us speak English. Then, looking at my friend Dominic (who is half Italian and half some combination of Hawaiian and Chinese) she said, "Is he American too? He doesn't look like you." So we had to explain that not everyone looks the same in America.
And then all of the awkward conversations with shopkeepers harassing you trying to sell you there stuff (all of which is exactly the same, no matter where you go). The store we went to was filled with small shops, all piled together - kind of like an indoors street market. "不要" (bu yao - don't want) is probably the single most useful phrase I've learned.
And then the conversation at the bookstore when one woman cracked up when she noticed I was buying children's books. I had to explain that I am basically a child when it comes to Chinese. And that reading fairy tales might help.
And talking to the taxi driver on the way back (Beijing subways close at 10:00). Taxi drivers in Beijing work 7 days a week, 12 hours a day. Most of them are very friendly and enjoy talking to foreigners. He also asked us why we were all speaking Chinese.
And then back in Wudoaku (where are campus is), while we were buying books, a Chinese man also buying books heard us speaking Chinese and started explaining his not-for-profit organization to us, hoping we might want to help out (actually sounded very interesting - they send people, including Americans, into poor areas in inner China to teach them basically anything that might help them learn more about the outside world - maybe another summer). Knowing we might not understand if he explained in Chinese, he spoke in (fluent) English. Us having the language pledge, we answered in Chinese. Chinese speaking English, American speaking Chinese. Makes no sense.
Eight and a half hours after leaving, we finally got back to campus. Obviously, I am thrilled to be coming home in 13 days. But for the first time, I felt very comfortable just walking around the city speaking Chinese. Not as unfamiliar place when you can understand what is happening around you. Kind of neat I guess.
Sunday, July 26, 2009
First Week Back in Beijing
Sunday, July 19, 2009
内蒙古 (Inner Mongolia)
Day 2 of our trip. Out in the Inner Mongolian grasslands at some sort of retreat. Living in 蒙古包 (Mongolian tents - seen in the background of the picture). After dinner, one of our teachers decided to teach us a Chinese game that turned out to be fairly similar duck duck goose. The minute we started playing, nearly all of the other guests (locals) hurried over to watch. Curious. What the hell were 20 外国人 (waiguoren - foreigners) doing sitting in a circle, running around each other? What the hell were we doing here in the first place?
Growing up in New York, it would be an oddity to see a mass of people all of the same ethnicity. In Beijing, it is normal. It is odd to see foreigners. Nevertheless, our program is at a University which specializes in teaching Chinese, so there are many foreigners on campus and in the surrounding neighborhood. Throughout my week in Inner Mongolia, I saw 7 (exactly) foreigners. I remember each one, and I remember where and when I saw them. Everywhere we went, we were an attraction. Several times people would almost jump back when they saw us. A lot of the time they would say "hello" with a big grin on their face - only to be shocked when we answered 你好 (ni hao) and occassionally started conversations in Chinese. In a store, a child saw three of us and started cracking up. A factory worker I interviewed said it was the first time he had ever had a conversation with a foreigner. So while we still get the occasional 外国人!in Beijing (today at KFC actually), it almost feels like home to be back.
Now for the trip. Last Friday afternoon, we took an 11 hour train to Huhhot, the capital of Inner Mongolia. I think the following picture gives a good idea of what the train ride was like:
Small room. 6 beds. Often other people hanging out in our room (like our teacher Guan Laoshi). Crowded, claustrophobic, not that comfortable, but still fun.
Friday, July 10, 2009
Off To Inner Mongolia
Everyone's excited. Everyone's ready for a break from classes. Everyone just loaded up on food in case lamb intestines don't work out. I'm not sure when I'll next have internet access, so I don't know when I'll be able to write again. No new pictures yet, but many coming soon.
Sunday, July 5, 2009
Week 3 - Shisanling, 4th of July, Gugong, and Beihai Gongyuan
Anyway, this past week was busy enough. On Monday, we had our first guest speaker, Gregory Gilligan, Head of Government Relations for McDonald's in China. He is an old friend of the director of HBA. Coontinuing something I mentioned last week, I thought one of his comments about conducting business in China was very interesting. A student asked him what the major differences were between business in America and business in China. He said in America, people generally start business relationships with a full level of trust. Only once someone else does something to break that trust does the relationship begin to deteriorate. In China, on the other hand, business partners begin with absolutely no trust in each other. They have to work their way up from the bottom. To me, this made sense. Down to the most basic street haggling transactions, it seems like most people here assume others are trying to rip them off. I don't get that feeling back home.
A busy week was followed by an even busier weekend. We boarded a bus at 8:00 Saturday morning to head to Shisanling (literally 13 tombs), the burial site of 13 of the Ming Dynasty emperors. Though not as fun as the Great Wall, the pictures I'm posting hopefully paint a picture of how impressive the site was. Shisanling is massive. We needed a bus to travel from tomb to tomb.
When we returned, we realized it was July 4th (none of our teachers were excited). We decided we needed a break from Chinese food and were going to try to find an American restaurant for dinner. We ended up at TGIFriday's. Can't really get more American than that.
After dinner, a bunch of students had the idea to go to a Karaoke bar. Karaoke is wildly popular here. You rent a private room, choose a bunch of songs, and compete against one other person. Only the scores never made any sense. No one cared. Probably the best song of the night was some song from SNL about putting something in a box. As many of you would expect, I didn't sing at all. I hate singing.
Sunday morning, my host father volunteered to take us to Gugong, the Forbidden City, where the Ming and Qing Dynasty Emperors lived. We met him at 9:30 and spent the day walking through Gugong and Beihai Gongyuan, a beautiful park nearby. After a late lunch (in which I felt obligated to try the strangest looking food I've ever eaten and am glad I still don't know what it was), we got back at 3:30, exhausted from hours of walking in humid weather approaching 100 degrees. Also mentally exhausted from six hours of trying to piece together our host father's rapid Chinese. Not much is more awkward then listening to a whole lot of Chinese, then trying to figure out whether you are supposed to laugh, act surprised, answer a question, or just agree. Most of the time we just said, "O, dui" - a polite way of agreeing. To be fair, I'm exaggerating a little. We are able to communicate and carry out conversations with him. It's just very challenging.
Once again, it's Sunday night and I have lots of homework to do. Nevertheless, Andy Roddick vs. Roger Federer will be on my tv in the background. Can't miss it. Plus, it's in Chinese, so it's good listening practice anyway. Until next post, check out my new pictures (HBA Week 3):
http://picasaweb.google.com/LouisGilbert15